Sunset sessions in Ensenada

3Ms is a reef break in El Sauzal, just south of San Miguel on the edge of Ensenada, and part of the Bahía de Todos Santos World Surfing Reserve. It offers lefts and rights that are more playful than the point next door, and it works on west and northwest swell through autumn and winter. The nearby industrial waterfront affects water quality, and the entry is over rock.

California Trailer Park is a reef in the El Sauzal stretch between San Miguel and Ensenada, named for the old trailer park on the bluff. The rocks are a real factor here, so it suits experienced surfers.

Stacks, also called Cannery, is the reef in front of the fish cannery's smokestacks in El Sauzal. It sits between San Miguel and Ensenada and picks up the same winter swells. The water here is affected by the cannery and harbor, so it is not a spot to surf after rain.

El Paso is a rocky reef on the coast north of Ensenada. It suits experienced surfers and works best at medium tide. The rocks are part of the lineup, so booties are a good idea.

Ensenada's beaches line the inside of Bahía de Todos Santos, which shelters them from much of the swell that hits the open coast. The waves are usually smaller and softer than at San Miguel or the outer reefs, which makes them a reasonable place for beginners on the right day. Ensenada has full services, including surf shops and rentals. Check water quality before you paddle out, especially after rain.

The Islas de Todos Santos sit off the entrance to Bahía de Todos Santos, outside Ensenada. The famous wave is Killers, a big-wave right off the northwest tip of the northern island, where deep water focuses winter northwest swell into a much bigger wave than the coast is getting. It is an expert-only wave that needs a boat, a partner and a rescue plan. Smaller, more manageable waves break elsewhere around the islands.

Punta San José is the headland with the lighthouse south of Santo Tomás, down a long dirt road from Highway 1. The break here is powerful and exposed, with a strong current running along the point. Its remoteness keeps the crowd small.

El Mirador is the scenic lookout on the toll road north of Ensenada, above the cliffs near Salsipuedes. The reefs below are for experienced surfers, and the rocks are the main hazard.

Punta Cabras is a stretch of reef and beach north of Eréndira, reached by dirt road from Highway 1. Rather than one defined wave, it has a spread of peaks that work on both northwest and south swell. It still feels remote, though it is busier than it used to be.

Salsipuedes is the right-hand point tucked into a cliff-lined bay between Rosarito and Ensenada, and one of the best-known waves in northern Baja. It needs a solid winter northwest swell to wrap into the bay, and when it does it can be heavy and hollow over rock. The name means roughly "leave if you can", which gives a fair idea of how steep the access and the inside section can be. Land access to the bay has been restricted in recent years, so many surfers now arrive by boat from Ensenada.

San Miguel is the cobblestone right-hand point at the north end of Ensenada, where the toll road ends at El Sauzal. It is the most consistent point in northern Baja and a standard stop for surfers heading south. West and northwest swells wrap into long walls, while south swell is mostly blocked by Punta Banda and the islands. The creek mouth at the point means the water is often poor after rain.